artthe
lovers
house(Mons)
10
THE ART OBSERVER
July 2010
By Jonathan Drage
THERE WAS a seminal moment
at the start of the decade when
Richard Morris ended a fitful but
long search for Le Minotaur, the
house in Provence where Pablo
Picasso lived, worked and died.
Richard tells the story. I have
had a life long interest in Picasso
- I guess almost an obsession.
This stems from my days at art-
college and one of my own
tutors obsessions. I guess its
not really Picassos work
Id
rather sit for hours in front of a
Rothko than a Picasso
but the
amazingly complex make-up of
the man.
I remember distinctly the news
broadcasts in 1973 when Picasso
died and a shot of him sweeping
down the drive of Le Minotaur
many years before in his
Hispano Suiza. I have no idea
what that occasion had been, but
all the news channels used the
same shot in announcing the
story of his death.
I worked in Cannes each year for
a short time for several years and
also visited that part of the
world regularly on holiday with
my family. And during those
times I wandered around casually
trying to find Le Minotaur. I also
wandered around thinking
increasingly that I would like to
live in Var, I liked the sunshine,
I liked the people and I liked
having the spirit of Matisse and
Cezanne and Bonnard and Monet
and Renoir around me. And all
the others! Then one day a final
piece of detective work led me
to that same driveway at Le
Minotaur - overgrown, tangled
and with grand iron gates which
had been chained up since the
great man died. I stood there
and cried with emotion. The
water lilies in MOMA, the
Rothkos in Tate Modern, the
sun shining into Mackintoshs
garden room at Hill House. A
handful of others had moved me
to tears. Anyone who loves art
and the context of art will
understand that.
And so I started looking for a
house in Var. Two long years
and dozens of houses later I was
ready to give up
until Anick,
my estate agent friend out there,
said, Just one more to look at,
three or four hours before my
flight back to Manchester.
Despite my protests Anick drove
(in her French driving style) up
the mountain to the village of
Mons. We walked into a house
in this mediaeval village that
wasnt exactly derelict, but was
far from cared for. As Anick
explained, a large family had
lived there from the early sixties.
The five kids had one by one
moved to Paris and when the
father had died years before his
ailing wife had been left with
the legacy of a large rambling
maison village, five floors, three
or four staircases and increasing
disability. I wandered around
quietly, instinctively feeling that
this was the house I had been
looking for. Provencale, real
Provencale. A mess yes, but